TikoTools

Insulation Calculator – R-Value, Depth & Bags Needed

Plan an insulation upgrade. Enter the area, your target R-value and any existing insulation, choose blown-in cellulose or fiberglass, batts, spray foam or rigid foam, and find out how deep the new insulation must be, how much volume that is and how many bags or bundles to buy.

Formula checked 24 Oct 2026 Free · no sign-up
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How to use the insulation calculator

  1. Enter the area — the attic floor, or the wall area to insulate.
  2. For batts between studs or joists, subtract about 10% for framing; for blown-in over the top or rigid foam, leave it at 0.
  3. Set your target R-value (see the table below).
  4. Choose the insulation to add, and measure the depth and type of any existing insulation.
  5. For bag counts, enter the coverage per bag for your R-value from the bag’s chart.

The formula

Existing R = Existing depth × R per inch (existing type) R to add = Target R − Existing R Depth = R to add ÷ R per inch (new type) Volume = Area × Depth Bags = Area ÷ Coverage per bag (from the bag chart)

Worked example

A 1,000 ft² attic with 3½ in of old fiberglass batts, upgraded to R-49 with blown cellulose:

  • Existing R = 3.5 × 3.2 = R-11.2
  • R to add = 49 − 11.2 = R-37.8
  • Depth = 37.8 ÷ 3.5 = 10.8 in of cellulose (blow a little deeper to allow for settling)
  • At 40 ft² per bag for that R-value: 1,000 ÷ 40 = 25 bags

DOE recommended attic R-values

Climate zoneExample areasUninsulated atticAdding to 3–4 in existing
1South Florida, HawaiiR-30 to R-49R-25 to R-30
2–3Gulf Coast, Southern California, GeorgiaR-30 to R-60R-25 to R-38
4–8Mid-Atlantic, Midwest, Northeast, Mountain WestR-49 to R-60R-38 to R-49

Walls: R-13 to R-15 in 2×4 cavities and R-19 to R-21 in 2×6 cavities, plus continuous exterior foam in colder zones. Check the Department of Energy’s map for your exact zone.

R-value per inch by insulation type (typical)

InsulationR per inchBest for
Fiberglass batts3.1–3.4Open walls, floors, attics (DIY)
Mineral wool batts3.8–4.2Fire and sound resistance
Blown fiberglass2.2–2.7Attic floors
Blown cellulose3.2–3.8Attic floors, dense-pack walls
Open-cell spray foam3.5–3.7Air sealing, roof decks
Closed-cell spray foam6.0–7.0Rim joists, basements
Rigid XPS / EPS / polyiso5.0 / 3.8–4.2 / 5.6–6.5Continuous exterior and basement insulation

Before you insulate

  • Air-seal first: caulk and foam gaps around wires, pipes, top plates and the attic hatch.
  • Keep vents open: install baffles at the eaves so soffit vents stay clear.
  • Check recessed lights: only IC-rated fixtures can be covered; use covers or keep clearance around others.
  • Mark the depth with rulers stapled to joists so blown insulation is level.
  • Look for rebates: many utilities and states offer rebates for attic insulation and air sealing — check before you buy.

Blown insulation can usually be installed with a machine lent free by the home improvement store when you buy enough bags — one person feeds the hopper while the other works in the attic.

Frequently asked questions

How do I calculate how much insulation I need?

Subtract the R-value you already have from your target, then divide by the R-value per inch of the new insulation to get the depth. Going from R-11 to R-49 with cellulose (about R-3.5 per inch) needs about 10.8 inches more.

What R-value should my attic have?

The U.S. Department of Energy recommends roughly R-30 to R-49 for an uninsulated attic in the warmest zone, R-30 to R-60 in zones 2–3, and R-49 to R-60 in zones 4–8. Adding to existing insulation, R-25 to R-38 more is typical in colder zones.

What is my existing insulation worth?

Measure its depth and multiply by R per inch: fiberglass batts about R-3.1–3.4, loose fiberglass about R-2.2–2.7, cellulose about R-3.2–3.8. Old, compressed or wet insulation performs worse.

How many bags of blown-in insulation do I need?

Use the coverage chart on the bag for your target R-value — it lists square feet per bag and the minimum installed depth. Divide your area by that coverage and round up.

Can I put new insulation over old?

Usually yes, if the old insulation is dry and not moldy or contaminated. If you add batts over old insulation, use unfaced batts laid across the joists so no vapor barrier is trapped in the middle.

Is air sealing important?

Very. Sealing gaps around wiring, plumbing, attic hatches and top plates before insulating often saves as much energy as the insulation itself.

How we checked this calculator

We test this tool against worked examples before every release (last check: 24 Oct 2026, version 1.0.0). Results are estimates for planning — confirm critical figures with your supplier or a qualified professional.

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